Seguimos las normativas para producir cítricos

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Existen normativas de cumplimiento obligatorio de producción y comercialización de plantas cítricas que aseguran la calidad (sanidad e identidad varietal) y es importante que el comprador las conozca y las tenga en cuenta al momento de elegir las plantas. Este documento lo desarrolla.

 

Recomendaciones sobre las plantas cítricas

Si ingresó a este documento, es porque observó algunas recomendaciones para comprar una planta cítrica, o acaba de comprar una. En las siguientes líneas sintetizamos dos aspectos que consideramos fundamentales para su conocimiento y que están destinados a asegurar la mejor y larga vida de su planta:

  • normativa vigente para garantizar la calidad de sus plantas
  • recomendaciones técnicas, como pasos posteriores necesarios para dar continuidad al crecimiento.

 

Sobre la normativa que regula la producción de plantas cítricas

Existen normativas de cumplimiento obligatorio de producción y comercialización de plantas cítricas que aseguran la calidad (sanidad e identidad varietal) y es importante que el comprador las conozca y las tenga en cuenta al momento de elegir las plantas.

La primera de ellas indica que todos los materiales cítricos que se produzcan y comercialicen tienen que estar identificados y ser libres de ciertas enfermedades, (149/1998 y 811/2004, ex SAGPYA). Los mismos deben llevar un rótulo, con la estampilla del INASE adherido al dorso.

El rótulo de la planta certificada debe contener: nombre y dirección del viverista, número de inscripción en el Registro Nacional de Comercio y Fiscalización de Semillas del INASE, especie y variedad, portainjerto, año de injertación, procedencia u origen, y contenido neto (cantidad de unidades). En su reverso, deberá figurar la siguiente leyenda: “El identificador se hace responsable por la identidad y demás datos contenidos en el presente rótulo”.

Las plantas para venta deberán tener las siguientes características:

  1. Plantas que tengan, como mínimo, un año de injertadas.
  2. Cinco o más milímetros de diámetro en el punto de injertación.
  3. Más de 50 cm de altura desde la parte superior de la maceta hasta el punto de formación de la copa.
  4. Otros aspectos de calidad como:
  • Ausencia de lesiones mecánicas significativas que comprometan el desarrollo de las plantas.
  • Ausencia de lesiones producidas por plagas que comprometan el desarrollo de las plantas.
  • Sin síntomas de deficiencia nutricional (aunque no es obligatorio)

La segunda normativa (930 /2009 del SENASA), establece la obligatoriedad de producir y mantener todo el material de propagación de cítricos incluida la planta terminada en viveros bajo cubierta  (cobertura plástica, aberturas protegidas con tela de malla anti insectos, doble puerta de acceso, con antecámara entre ellas, elementos de desinfección de vestimenta, manos y utensilios).

El objetivo de esta exigencia se fundamenta en la necesidad de asegurar la sanidad de las plantas evitando la propagación de las principales enfermedades que afectan a las plantas cítricas, priorizando las acciones preventivas para evitar la diseminación del HLB, enfermedad de origen bacteriano que es trasmitida por un insecto vector. Huanglongbing (HLB), es la enfermedad más grave que afecta a los cítricos en el mundo, y constituye una amenaza permanente a la producción de nuestro país.

 

 

 

Lista de chequeo para comprar una planta que crezca sana y vigorosa

Deben verificarse los siguientes 3 puntos

    1. Que tenga etiqueta con estampilla del  Instituto Nacional de Semillas -INASE-, que certifica el proceso. Debe incluir: nombre de la variedad, el año de producción, y el viverista que la produjo.
    2. Que adjunten una guía de tránsito expedida por el SENASA, con el detalle de lo que se está comprando. Da cuenta que fue producida en un vivero registrado y permite circular por el país.
    3. Que cuando se retire, se haga de un invernáculo que solo tenga otras plantas cítricas, cuyo acceso esté restringido y en las partes abiertas se visualice malla anti insectos

Es altamente recomendable observar

    1. Que las hojas y las ramas estén sanas. Es decir, que no estén quebradas ni comidas por insectos.
    2. Que en la observación cercana, las hojas no tengan manchas ni otras marcas.

Es opcional, pero una clave para asegurar que la planta se adapte al nuevo destino

    1. Que haya crecido en maceta. Evita el estrés de trasplante y es más liviana para el traslado.

     

Recomendaciones de manejo de las plantas cítricas en pequeña escala

Los cítricos se adaptan mejor a condiciones de clima templado y subtropical, las bajas temperaturas pueden afectar diferentes órganos vegetales; dependiendo de la edad de la planta, la intensidad y duración del descenso de la temperatura y la época del año en que se produce.

Prefieren lugares soleados por eso hay que evitar plantarlos próximos a otros árboles que puedan competir por luz, agua y nutrientes.

Más allá de que los frutales pueden prosperar en diferentes tipos de suelos hay que evitar aquellos bajos y “pesados”.

Actualmente, la producción en viveros de plantas cítricas  se realiza principalmente en macetas desde el inicio del cultivo y, aunque tengan menor tamaño,  responden mejor al trasplante que las producidas en el suelo. Esto ocurre porque al no haber pérdidas de raíces en el trasplante, el balance entre el sistema radicular y la copa es suficiente para que la planta no se deshidrate, así como se adapta rápidamente e inicia su crecimiento.

Al producirse en contenedor, la planta puede estar disponible en el mercado durante todo el año, pero la época ideal de plantación en su lugar definitivo, es cuando pasa el riesgo de heladas Si al plantarla todavía hay riesgo, se sugiere cubrir la planta con malla anti-heladas, colocándola sobre una estructura sencilla que evite su contacto con las hojas.

La distancia recomendada entre plantas es de 5 metros x 3 metros. Cuando se la plante en un patio o cerca de un tapial, deberá considerarse especialmente esta distancia.   El suelo debe estar libre de escombros y en un lugar donde no se acumule el agua

 

¿Cómo plantar?

  1. Hacer un pozo un poco más grande que el tamaño de la maceta donde se encuentra la planta.
  2. Agregar en el fondo del pozo,  aproximadamente 10 cm de compost. En caso de no tener este componente, elegir la tierra de mejor calidad, la más negra. Se puede completar con la incorporación de algún fertilizante de base con fósforo (fosfato diamónico o triple 15), tomando como medida una tapa de gaseosa. Distribuirlo en todo el hoyo, no en un solo lugar. Los abonos que se incorporen no deben estar en contacto con las raíces o el tronco de la planta. Luego regar.
  3. A continuación colocar la planta con el pan de tierra, completando el hoyo con compost o tierra de buena calidad. Arrimar tierra al tronco, evitando cubrir el injerto           que debe quedar por encima del nivel del suelo.
  4. Regar nuevamente, distribuyendo el agua formando un anillo y evitando que se moje el tronco.
  5. Desde este momento es importante prestar atención y realizar control de malezas y de hormigas. Si bien esto debe realizarse en todo momento, es principalmente importante concretarlo durante los primeros estadíos. Para las hormigas pueden colocarse trampas alrededor del tronco o utilizar cebos específicos.

 

¿Qué cuidados requieren las plantas cítricas?

Hay tareas que hay que realizar durante todo el año para poder cosechar frutas de calidad.

La fertilización y el riego son dos de las tareas más importantes, ya que como todas las plantas los cítricos necesitan nutrientes y agua. La fertilización debe ser balanceada, es decir, contener todos los macro y micronutrientes necesarios para brotar, florecer y dar frutos.

El compost o el humus de lombriz es una alternativa muy interesante ya que además del aporte de nutrientes tiene otras propiedades benéficas como el control biológico de hongos de suelo.

Otra alternativa es incorporar fertilizantes minerales como la úrea, el triple 15, o el superfosfato diamónico, aunque la recomendación varía entre otras cosas con el tipo de fertilizante. También influye el tipo de suelo, el contenido de nutrientes, hasta el portainjerto. Todos deben distribuirse debajo de la proyección de la copa, en el lugar donde están las raíces e incorporarse al suelo con una pala. Se recomienda fraccionar la aplicación en dos momentos: previo a la floración  y en diciembre.

En el caso de úrea se puede aplicar 100 gramos el primer año distribuidos en las dos épocas de aplicación, al segundo año 200 gramos y así proporcionalmente, hasta los 10 años donde se estabiliza en 1 kilo. Otra opción es fertilizar por cajón de fruta producida. A razón de 100 gramos de úrea por cada cajón y por año.

Si se utiliza triple 15 la dosis recomendada es de aproximadamente 300 gramos por año de edad. Para 18-46-0 + úrea, la dosis es de 200 + 50 gramos respectivamente. En ambos casos también la dosis se  estabilizan a los 10 años.

En el caso del riego, debe ser acorde a los momentos fisiológicos que transcurre la planta, a su tamaño y al clima. En todos los casos, el agua debe llegar al lugar donde están las raíces. En el verano hay que aumentar la frecuencia y la cantidad de agua, aunque debe evitarse excederse.

La poda es otra tarea a realizar en el momento de plantación. Su objetivo es tener un equilibrio entre raíces y copa. Para ello deben seleccionarse  tres  o cuatro ramas primarias distribuidas alrededor de la copa y que no salgan del mismo lugar de inserción, para formar la futura estructura de la planta adulta.

Posteriormente se sugieren realizar intervenciones para eliminar ramas superpuestas, rotas, enfermas. Esto se recomienda realizar luego del invierno para que la planta cuente con mejor iluminación y aireación interna, para así contribuir al mejor estado sanitario general.

En sitios con riesgo de heladas es conveniente cosechar la fruta, para que la planta pueda defenderse mejor de estos fenómenos climáticos. En variedades con predisposición a la alternancia (es decir, un año tiene buena producción y al siguiente mala.) es imprescindible realizar esta práctica. La fruta puede conservarse envuelta individualmente en un lugar seco y fresco, con mínimo de averías,  durante 60 días aproximadamente. No hay que guardarla húmeda.

 

Información adicional ampliatoria

 

Resoluciones vigentes:

  • 149/1998 y 811/2004, ex SAGPYA, normas para la producción, comercialización e introducción de plantas cítricas de vivero y sus partes, autoridades de aplicación de las mencionadas normas, INASE y SENASA.
  • 312/2007 de la ex SAGPYA , se crea el Registro Nacional de Operadores de Material de Propagación, Micropropagación y/o Multiplicación Vegetal (RENFO).
  • 458/2009 del SENASA, declara el alerta fitosanitario por Huanglongbing (HLB).
  • 930 /2009 del SENASA, establece la obligatoriedad de producir y mantener todo el material de propagación de cítricos incluida la planta terminada en viveros bajo cubierta  (Cobertura plástica, aberturas protegidas con tela de malla anti insectos, doble puerta de acceso, con antecámara entre ellas, equipamiento de desinfección de vestimenta, manos y utensilios). Rige a partir del 1/1/2011. Los materiales producidos con anterioridad a esa fecha en viveros a cielo abierto, tendrán como plazo máximo para su venta, traslado y plantación hasta el 1º de julio de 2012, fecha después de la cual deberán ser destruidos.
  • 959/2009,  declara la emergencia fitosanitaria con respecto al HLB.

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